Like many other Hong Kong trips I've made in recent years - it's short, hectic, hot and humid.
One of the main reasons for this trip was to renew my Hong Kong passport, which was done in HK's usual no nonsense, efficient style. I've made the application and paid the fee online 3 weeks beforehand, booked the collection appointment online a week before and collected it the 2nd day I arrived, waited no more than 10 minutes in the immigration office.
So that's done. And I have some catching up, shopping and eating to do.
Catching up
Apart from family, friends I met up in this short trip were mostly ones that I've been in constant contact with. So it's more of a chance to go out together to share a good meal, than receiving shocking news about their lives. One subject constantly popped up was their bittersweet view of the influx of mainland visitors in Hong Kong - good for the economy, not so great if you were pregnant and found out hospitals were running out of beds, doctors, and baby powder.
I avoided watching the local news whenever I was in town - I just couldn't bear it, it makes me upset and sad. I had this discussion with my Italian friend who lives in London - It's not that UK don't have rotten people running the government too, but somehow, as outsiders, we can get involved without getting too emotional.
Shopping
The mainland tourists' impact, is of course, very visible in this category. Causeway Bay - where I stayed this time - are flooded with jewellery stores, luxury goods (how many Louis Vuitton shops do we really need?), pharmacies (Watson's and Manning were unrecognisable with the sort of things they sell now) and many many "Sa Sa" and the like. And most important of all - prices are high, as my friends told me, "why offer you discount when the goods are still flying off the shelves at premium price?"
I went to my old favourites and found that prices are higher than in UK. HK$3000 (£250) for a top in Zucca? I held up a pair of Giuseppe Zanotti sandals in IFC mall and thought, "I used to be able to afford their shoes"...
Other observations: - Agnes b. is huge in Hong Kong at a ridiculous level. - Is every shop on Paterson Street owned by I.T. boutiques? - Since when Bauhaus become so popular? - Where have all the Giordano shops gone?
One thing I am happy though - I find shop assistants in HK are still mostly friendly and efficient, even when you are not a big spender. Now they are multi-lingual as well.
Eating
One category that still remains relatively cheap and good quality. Never run out of places to eat in Hong Kong. I satisfied myself with a big plate of sashimi the first night I arrived. Paid less than HK$350 (£30), in UK, that would buy me 5 pieces of cheap salmon sushi.
I gave up trying to get to Mak Un Kee (麥奀記) for their famous wonton noodles, since Chi Kee (池記), which was almost as good, was just next door, so I had it a few times.
Another sign of me becoming more and more like a tourist in my homeland or an old "Hongkonger" was that I kept wanting to go back to my old favourite cafe - Pokka Cafe in Causeway Bay - where my Hong Kong friends wrinkled their nose and said, "We don't go there anymore." What? Pokka, who probably still have the best 炭燒咖啡 (sumiyaki coffee) in Hong Kong, is considered as outdated?
I had an hour to kill on my last day, so I decided go there by myself - was certain that it wouldn't have survived the too-fast changing pace/taste of Hong Kong customers. And to my delight - it's still there, though closed for renovation:

Pokka - stay there, I'll be back.
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I have lots of films I want to blog about - short or long - but that would have to wait til I get back from Hong Kong next week.
In the meantime, as soon as the government warned about the drought, London has been flooding/raining non-stop for 2 weeks. So bracing the annoying rain, we visited Jamie Oliver's new BBQ restaurant, Barbecoa.
Location: with a direct view of St.Paul in the city. Prime. Food: Lots of ribs, brisket, pull pork to choose. Not bad, but I still prefer Texan salt and pepper dry rub style I tried in US.

Leaving on a jet plane.
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I've been busy playing and messing about with the 6" Kindle 4 I got for my b-day - have to admit that despite locking some of your ebooks with a merchant, it is a better eReader than the whimsical but slightly bulky iPad... Plus I can always choose to upload my own ebooks into it instead...
Also a big THANK YOU to Mrs Jones for the lovely b-day gifts. One of the few precious friends who I trust to fill my wardrobe.
Now I have lovely dress and top from (allegedly) Mrs Obama's favourite designer, Jason Wu. Good enough for dinner at the White House, I am sure :-)

Thanks and I hope she got good goodies for herself there too.
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Crazy Stupid Love
One of the few good rom-coms that Hollywood occasionally manages to produce. Good cast performance, a decent script, not trying too hard and oh yes, trying to sell you the crazy stupid love - it can work.
Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy
So prepared to enjoy a cool spy movie, but I ended up with a cold and confusing story. The chaotic plot and the detached narration go way over the top, half way through I decided I didn't really care. I know it's set in the Cold War period, but I do need a bit emotion, even when you are supposed to be cool and secretive.
Drive
I haven't decided if I liked the film. I liked it, maybe just not as much as I would or should have. It's original in the case that it takes a chance. Dressed with nostalgic 80s music, leon lights, a quiet and cool character... and then sudden thrust of ultra violence. It's all very stylish... but also rather calculated. I know the film it reminds me of, it's not Taxi Driver, it's Sling Blade.
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Courtesy of my friend S, who always picks the cutest and most cheerful gift. Thank you!
 Keeping all fuzzy animals in my house nice and warm :-)
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Certified Copy
Two things you might have heard about this film by Abbas Kiarostami: 1. Juilette Binoche won the Best Actress in Cannes with it. 2. That this film is like Before Sunrise for middle-aged people.
1. is true and well-deserved. 2. Not quite.
The Plot: In Tuscany to promote his latest book, a middle-aged British writer meets a French woman who leads him to the village of Lucignano. While there, a chance question reveals something deeper. (source: imdb.com)
Nothing is quite what it seems. Appropriate to the film title - what the audience is seeing might not be the original, it's an imitation, a copy. An exquisite, wonderful copy. For some, it's not the same, because it's not the real thing; for some, a copy so fine, it should be cherished just as the original. Abbas Kiarostami plays with this theme throughout the whole film. The British writer in the film wrote an acclaimed essay book about the subject of worthy copies. The two characters have discussion about this, they visit a museum with a acclaimed copy painting and finally... up close and personal, a question of copy or original of the two characters' relationship.
At the beginning, when the British writer seemingly accepts the invitation of a French woman to visit her shop and a little tour around the area, it does have the hallmarks of the flirting and intellectual dialog - yes - just like Before Sunrise. But soon enough, audience realises, the two characters actually seem like an old couple, they apparently know each other before. So, what is their real relationship? There is no definite answer to the question, which might leave some people slightly annoyed. However, looking at the clues here and there, it's quite obvious that Kiarostami is showing us that these two characters are a copy version of a married couple - that they act like old married couple, talk like one, have anniversary to celebrate, and yet (most likely) they aren't married. The man seems more reluctant than the woman, there is lot of unspoken hurt in the film which set it apart from the hopeful Before Sunrise - we are not seeing a couple's budding romance; we are seeing a couple that's been together (likely to be on and off, as they don't live together) for 15 years, struggling.
Juliette Binoche is effortlessly brilliant. I think many of the clues come from her performance, the hurt, the silent hope and complaint, all on her face without the need of spoken word. The film is, however, is dialog filled. At first, it's like an intellectual discussion with Tuscany scenery, then slowly becoming emotional charged, doubtful and puzzling. All in all, a fascinating cinematic journey.
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In 2011, I had the privilege to watch some hollywood films sooner because I was living in US, went to the lovely Chicago International Film Festival for the first time and the pleasure to watch good films with my trustful film buff friend, Mrs Jones.
So here's a little summary, a wrap, a celebration of films I've seen in 2011:
The Top 10 - in no preferential order apart from the Top 3
1. Beginners : A poignant story about making a new start. The 75-year-old Hal, who decides he now wants to live a gay man's life; his 38-year-old son, Oliver, reflecting on his childhood memories with his eccentric parents and afraid to kick start his own life. Heartbreakingly tender, it's a lovely lovely film that carries some of the funniest lines I've heard in films in 2011, it also have some sage advice for life, delivered by the cutest Jack Russell dog.
2. We Need to Talk about Kevin : A well executed. superbly acted psychological thriller about parenting goes wrong. Also a rare film adaptation that did its original book version justice.
3. The Skin I Live In : Pedro Almodovar's Hitchcock style thriller, brilliantly done with his trademarked brand of melodrama thrown in. The result is a suspenseful and powerful film that is both intriguing and disturbing. The plot is outlandish, with a snowball effect of getting more and more surreal, as the psychological aspect deepens. Glorious.
4. Melancholia : It's not Breaking the Waves, it's not even as wicked as Antichrist, but The End of World through Lars von Trier's vision? It's still magnificent and mesmerising. 5. Source Code : Duncan Jones's successful transition to mainstream is a fast-speed, intelligent, stylish and efficient Sci-fi thriller that deserves multiple viewings. 6. Blue Valentine : a love begins with tenderness; a marriage that ends in silent despair. Intimate and hallowing. A bittersweet cinematic journey powered by two great performance. 7. Rabbit Hole : Grief can be poignant, it can also have a sense of humour. 8. Submarine : a dark comedy about the coming of age story of a Welsh teenage. I love that it is also slightly subversive. 9. Midnight in Paris : the only entry that I might regret later, like l found out Vicky Cristina Barcelona couldn't survive a 2nd viewing. But I can't help liking this Woody Allen film which is almost like a updated version of his own "Purple Rose of Cairo". Magical and totally delightful. 10. American - The Bill Hicks Story : For a man as angry and passionate as Hicks, he was actually surrounded by a small but trustful circle of friends, love from his family. Made with love and respect for the man, it is a worthy tribute to probably the best American standup comedian.
Special Mentions : Troll Hunter : believe the hype. It's good and fun. But please, watch the original. Bridesmaids : I think it is rather unjust that people call it the female version of "Hangover" - it has more heart and actually, funnier. Red State : While it's not among the best, Kevin Smith does offer a few satirical points and no one in it escapes mockery. Margin Call : Telling Oliver Stone how to make a good fictional film about Wall Street greed.
Surprises : critically panned, but I liked it. The Green Hornet : I think people missed the fact this is directed by Michel Gondry. He wasn't planning to do a superhero movie, he's doing his best to pervert the genre! I'd say, it was good fun. Bad Teacher : Hats off to the characterisation in this comedy. It's refreshing when they don't try to make you like the central character, but you end up rooting for her wickedness anyway.
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Checking In....
Of course, the November NABLPOMO is a complete fail this year. I blame that I don't have proper internet since we moved back to London (and still don't), and also the gruesome task of trying to find a decent flat to rent within 2 weeks.
We achieved the latter task - after seeing 25 flats later - we settled in North London, it is probably the most residential area I've ever stayed in London. The area's famous residents include: Kate Moss, the boring Coldplay guy with the annoying wife, some BBC presenter, saved slightly by the fact that Simon Pegg and Tim Burton also live here. And our local MP is the intimidating Glenda Jackson. Of course, they are in their mansions on the hill side, we are in our modest flat down the road. We are still waiting to see if we are "North London" people...
It's nice to be back in non-weather London where a leather jacket will see you through 10 months of the year (so it's one item you should really invest in here). I'm happy to be back to Sainsburys, Waitrose and Ocado delivery land, the ever reliable John Lewis, nobody slams door in my face, no need to add 30% on top of the prices on the menu, and the London underground seems exceedingly clean after a year of NY subway... and we spoil ourselves with a deep and huge bathtub.
But listen! Finally I also have something nice to say about NY (YAY!): we got Time Warner cable and internet up and running 2 days after we ordered it. We called the great British Telecom here two weeks ago - they messed up the first appointment and then failed to rectify their own mistake and could only rebook us as like we place a new order, another week gone.
Nothing unusual. Just typical British utility company service.
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It's November again. I will try to do the NaMoBloPo again this year... while on the move. By tomorrow morning, I will be back on the other side of the pond.
A brilliant two-month stay in Chicago vastly improved our little US adventure. Seems like we picked the wrong US city for our experiment. But at least we can now cross out "Try Manhattan" and write "meh" over it and be done with it.
And back to old Blighty (now under evil Tories and lame Lib Dem control... *shudders*)

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We Need to Talk About Kevin
An uneasy film based on an uneasy book. It took two attempts, 6 months apart, for me to finish the book. Lionel Shriver's tale of a parenting nightmare is as bleak as it is scary.
Like the book, the film raises taboo subjects like maternal love (being taken for granted), nature vs nurture. The film is more in the form of a psychological horror than the book version. We see at the beginning of the film, Eva (Tilda Swinton), living in a hostile community, looking shamed, scared and defeated. Glimpses of the past through Eva's point of view, audience slowly discovers what happened to her. But the suspense never ceases, the more audience realises what's going on, the more questions raised.
Director Lynne Ramsey painted the film in carefully orchestrated colour scheme. The desolate pale colours in Eva's house, contrast with the sudden thrust of crimson red, from her past, her present, in her mind. A woman forever haunted by this colour. Performance wise, Tilda Swinton, as Eva, is near flawless. The film abandoned the book's first person narration format (in the form of letters to her husband), so audience has to rely on watching Eva's expression to read her mind. John C Reilly effortlessly plays the doting father who never sees it coming. And finally, Kevin, played by three different actors, all send a chill down your spine.
Even as we see Kevin finally shows a glimpse of his true self, his own confusion, the ending offers no comfort, no answers. A mother who never bonds with her son, is it her fault when the son turns out to be a sociopath, committing unimaginable atrocity? Or could a child just be born evil? After all, Eva's 2nd child seems lovable enough.
In the Q&A session, an audience raised the question that perhaps Eva had been drinking while pregnant with Kevin (her love of red wine is apparent in the film, or it could be another crimson item the director throws in), she claims she knows cases like this leading to a child being particularly violent. Sounds to me, we'd all prefer a medical explanation than to ponder the (im)possibility that a child can just be evil, or a mother's bond with her child may not come as natural as we'd like to think...
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Love Actually... Sucks 愛很爛
I have been out of touch with mainstream Hong Kong films, let alone independent ones. It's both exciting and strange to watch an HK indie film like this one - bold, sexually explicit (it's soft porn with plot, let's make this clear) and rather uncompromising.
Told in Robert Altman's "Short-cuts"story telling style, the film involves a group of individuals who attend the same wedding banquet at the beginning of the film, the film goes on to tell a few unrelated stories of these characters. There are incest, gruesome murder, repressed desire, marital problem, revenge... enough to keep audience engaged and shocked. It has surprisingly witty dialog and a little subversive. So yes, i like that it's sort of antidote to "Love Actually".
Bunny Drop
A crowd pleaser with all the typical near comical Japanese characters. Bunny Drop is about "sudden parenthood" to a 30-year-old single salaryman and the cutest 6-year-old girl you can see on screen.
Lots of heartwarming and funny moments. There's no real villain, nothing tragic, the only heavy item is, perhaps, the responsibility of being a parent.
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Melancholia The question that led to Lars Von Trier's "I understand Hitler" (people has no sense of irony) controversy in Cannes was about why he chose Wagner's "Tristan and Isolde" for this film. One thing for sure - it's a powerful piece of music score and fits right with von Trier's visual images of impending end of the world. As it demonstrates in the extended opening scene.
The story is simple; the characters aren't. A planet called Melancholia is on its path to Earth, some believe it would hit Earth and end the world as we know it. In the first half, we see Justine (Kirsten Dunst) at her grand wedding in a countryside chateau owned by her wealthy brother-in-law, John (Kiefer Sutherland). Justine is troubled, deeply depressed but putting up a brave face at the beginning of the wedding, but soon we see her slowly crumbling and drifting in and out of her own wedding, while guests remain stubbornly in denial. The 2nd part of story is from Claire, Justine's sister, who has anxiety attacks over the possibility of Melancholia hitting Earth. As the world comes to and end, we see the optimistic, know-it-all John takes the easy way out; Justine who seems to see this as the ultimate relief and welcomes it; Claire, who loves life in her quiet way, bracing the final end.
It's the sort of self-indulgent film-making that is almost necessary, it's a subject that a director like Von Trier would run full throttle with. Of course, it'd seem pretentious because he chose a group of rather selfish, self-centred rich people to face the end of the world. Justine's parents are fine examples of parents who are well-educated but failed to genuinely care for their children. These are not a happy group of people, the first part of the film at the wedding is reminiscent of another Danish film "Festen", the undercurrent troubles ignored by the rich, who only see what they want to see.
Visually stunning, Melancholia is mesmerising but also uncomfortable to watch. There are plenty of humour and sharp irony, but they are also painful. Personally, I think Antichrist is more engaging and told a better story, but when it comes to an End-of-the-World story, you can trust Lars Von Trier to give you a memorable ride.
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Chicago in random
1. Chicago runs on Dunkin - there are 3 Dunkin Donuts just on the immediate streets around my building. I'm not complaining, they have slightly better coffee than Starbucks. And cheaper.
2. Sorry, New York, but Chicago has better pizza - because New York pizzeria often insists on their "New York style", I've been eating greasy, often soggy pizzas (tip: do not order mushrooms on your pizza in NY) for a year over there. While I'm not a fan of Chicago deep dish or stuffed pizza, I managed to find some pretty good thin crust pizza without difficulties.
3. Believe the name - it is a very windy city. I would have got blown away the other day, had I not been carrying 4 bags of groceries. More reasons we should leave before the winter really annoys us.
4. Skyscraper spider - I don't know how they got up there, but in Chicago spiders love to build their web up on 40th storey.
5. It's easy to appreciate a city where the pub has a beer dedicated to Charles Bukowski: and has a cocktail called "F*ck Manhattan": 
6. I still haven't gotten over how big Lake Michigan is and how much it looks like some rough sea when it's windy.
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Butterfly dreams
Last night I dreamt of a childhood snack I loved when I was a kid in Hong Kong. Remember those times when all I thought about was when I could have a soda (my vice was "7-Up") and what pastry should I "beg" my mum to get me.
And the "Butterfly Biscuit" was one of my favourites:

Of course, back then I didn't know it's French and its proper name is Palmier. Hong Kong bakers kind of make their own version - less sugar, more buttery, more crumbly, the same texture as the local "puff pastry" on egg tart.
If you don't attempt to make your own puff pastry, Palmiers are actually one of the easiest treat you can make at home. So I decided to make some:

Ingredients: 1 cup of sugar (white, not too fine) A pinch of sea salt (mix into the sugar) 1 sheet of ready made puff pastry
Let's make cake: Place a large parchment sheet on a smooth surface, put 1/2 cup of sugar on the sheet. Put the puff pastry sheet on top of of the sugar Put of the remaining 1/2 cup of sugar on the pastry sheet evenly Use a rolling pin to roll the pastry sheet into a 12"x12" square Fold the sides of the pastry sheet towards the centre, half way to the middle. Then fold both sides towards the centre again, so the two folds meet in the middle. Then fold one side on top of the other. Slice the pastry fold into 1/4 inch slices Put them on baking sheet and bake (at 230C) for 8 minutes on one side, flip them over and bake for further 3-4minutes.
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Bigger, Taller, Cleaner...
We arrived Chicago this week, everything seems bigger, taller than New York. This is a view from our apartment in downtown Chicago:

In the picture, you can see they are renovating a nearby gothic style old building into luxe condos, which looks great. The one we are staying though is a very generic modern condo block with suicide-proof floor to ceiling windows, neutral colour everything, a gym and a pool etc. But after the "rent is too damn high" nightmarish rental in NYC, I'm just happy that everything Is relatively new and works here.
Greektown is 20 minutes walk away:

I tried a "chicago's best gyros" there, the meat tastes more like kebab. The shops are owned by Greeks but served by Latinos. And apparently the only Greek grocery store there has closed down. I asked a Greek American and he said "Greek people don't live in Greektown, we run restaurants here"
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Looks like this is goodbye. Nice knowing you
Our American adventure is being cut short - CT office closing and everyone to be transferred to Chicago, but we decided to ask for a transfer back to "the big smoke" London instead - maybe still in time to help put out the fire.
A small detour - we will be spending a month or so in Chicago before moving back. A bonus for us, as we've always loved it there every time we visited. Looking forward to enjoy Chicago in, erm, sensible weather.
We shall be leaving New York City in less than a week, I will miss friends I met here terribly, but not so much the household pest, aggressive pensioners (aka UES residents), cheap rental apartment locks, shallow bathtub and dirty subways. Also will remember fondly of places and things we like: Comedy Cellar, Blue Smoke ribs, White Russian in Ditchplains, cheap Korean nail salon, other people's dogs on the street, swifter cleaning pads...

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American Sports
Not really following any of the American professional sports here, my baseball knowledge is still limited with: i guess it's somewhat similar to cricket, my American football knowledge is limited with: quarterback seems to be the most important player in the game. So, the only live event I will be going is US Open - the tennis one.
But - there is a chance that I will be watching the US national "football/soccer" team with extra interest in the next World Cup...
When the US woman football team marched into the final of World Cup few weeks ago, my friend was sniggering, "their men's pro game will never go anywhere, now soccer is a girls' game in this country"
Hmmmm... I thought the USA men's team actually did pretty decent in the last World Cup, but maybe a German coach will work magic... and voilà!
Juergen Klinsmann named new US head coach
Klinsmann was my favourite footballer when I was learning German and following football on tv. He is also the English public's favourite German, an achievement harder than winning the World Cup, I'd say. And he did also win a World Cup and an European Championship.
While he had a disaster year in Bayern Munich (got fired before end of the season), the US seems to be smitten with him for years. And the feelings are mutual. Klinsmann not only married an American wife, he lives in California for years and he openly adores America, in a similar way to Wim Wenders' fascination with American culture.
So a match made in heaven? I will definitely keep an eye on it.
Fun Notes: Before moving here, I didn't realise US baseball and basketball league play so many games and so frequently. Even though the season might be shorter than English football, but when in season, if one is seriously following the sport, it is quite a hectic schedule.
I can never seriously follow league games week in week out, even for "football", I would only watch occasional big matches, champion's league game. Big tournaments like World Cup and European Championship which comes once every 4 years are definitely more worthwhile to follow.
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| Date: | 2011-07-07 16:43 |
| Subject: | Grandmasters |
| Security: | Public |
| Mood: | cheerful |
I kind of lost track of Wong Kar-Wai's films after the Norah Jones starred "My Blueberry nights" (I seriously doubt my ability to sit through a film that showcases Ms Jones' music or her other talents), so it's a relief to know that Wong finally went back to his old trusted pal - Tony Leung, to make his new full feature film - The Grandmasters

I know I have to sit through the performance of Ziyi Zhang, probably she's here for the people who are financing this film to have "international appeal". Or maybe she was hand-picked by Wong, he chose Norah Jones himself after all... hmmm.
Anyway, it's a film worth looking forward to. Like many Chinese directors who have gained international fame, Wong apparently wants to prove that he's more than an artsy indie director, he can do martial arts films as well and Yuen Wo-Ping will guarantee that.
And most importantly - the Wong Kar-Wei and Tony Leung combo has never failed. The usual problem - also happening with this one - is WHEN will Wong finish filming it.
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Get Us to the Greek
Greek parliament passed a new wave of harsh austerity measures, which ensures tough times for everyone except the super-rich, but quietly many also reckon it's also a chance to trim their super bloated public sector. In any case, if you have go through hard time, it's better to do it in a place with sunshine, beaches, cheap good food and ouzo.
One aspect of our lives has improved in New York: the readily availability of Greek groceries.
New York City has a large Greek community (though not as big as the one in Chicago), Greek food such as gyros and feta cheese are part of the mainstream food here. (although I won't trust the authenticity of the gyros here, plus ordering a "chicken gyros" means you aren't really into the real thing), and there are large supermarkets specialised in Greek groceries, imported directly from Greece and run by Greek Americans.
That makes it easier for me to make Greek dishes with correct ingredients. Such as stuffed peppers and tomatoes (γεμιστα), baked Greek big beans (φασόλια γίγαντες στον φούρνο) and zucchini fritters (κολοκιθοκεφτεδες):

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Pride and the city
For the first time since I moved here, I'm happy to say that I'm a resident of New York. As you know, the New York state passed the marriage equality bill, legalised gay marriage. As Jack McCoy of Law & Order says, "Let 'em marry. Why shouldn't they be as miserable as the rest of us? ;P
And now New Jersey, with the non-gay-marriage fan governor Chris Christie, sounds like a bunch of redneck neighbours. Sort yourself out, neighbours.
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